2010 Harvest Update

So the 2010 harvest is wrapping up in the Finger Lakes and it seems like a good time to reflect on the season.

• Heat, Heat, & More Heat - We had plenty of steamy weather for most of the season. I remember back to the April-like conditions we had in February. Everything seemed ahead of the game - fruits, flowers, vegetables were coming of age about a month ahead of schedule. We held our breath in anticipation of the "normal" weather conditions to arrive, but they never did.
• When it Rains, it Pours - We did receive water this vintage, unlike the drier 2005 or 2007 vintages. However, the water we received was usually in downpours lasting anywhere from a couple of minutes to a couple of hours. Two inches of rain in that time doesn't stick around for very long. It felt like there was not a full day of rain from June through October - again, incredibly unseasonable for the Finger Lakes.
• The Confusing Science - As the harvest reports surfaced, winemakers around New York state were perplexed by the numbers coming off the vine. The pH's were rising dramatically and the TA's we're dropping at a pretty fierce pace too. The only problem seemed to be that the sugars hadn't developed at the same rate that the other numbers would indicate. Thus, more waiting for proper fruit development was critically important.
• Over Already? - The grapes arrived at a constant rate throughout the harvest. The steady pace and consistent weather conditions left us with nothing to do after mid-October (just kidding). With the last fruit from 2009 arriving to Heart & Hands December 3rd, it seemed like a gift to see the last of the Riesling on the 14th of October. There is plenty to still be done, however. But, we are elated that things went this smoothly.

With the wines in the tank and barrel, things are quite promising. The lip smacking Rieslings are crisp and have a beautiful core of citrus and tropical fruit. The Pinot Noir's are sure to not disappoint either. With everything from cherry to pomegranate, mocha, chewy, & beautiful weight they should be fun to taste over the next few months in the barrel.

So You Want To Be In The Wine Biz...

I'd like to think the best advise I never took was when Tom Burgess, owner of Burgess Cellars, told me,

"If you love wine... don't get into the industry."

Now, maybe I caught him on one of those bad days - where your destemmer breaks, or your grapes came in too hot, or any other of the many headaches that a winery owner endures during harvest. The reason why I say this is that Tom has been very successful over the years and his wines have always demonstrated a structure and complexity that exceeded the $30 price tag they listed for. This was certainly out of character, but the message stuck with me just the same.

Some talk about entering the Wine Industry stemming from an epiphany, like "oh, it just hit me with that '82 Petrus." Others have centuries of wine in their blood, like the Domaine Daniel Rion family in Burgundy dating back to the 12th century. For me, working for a winery in high school seemed to have planted the seed, and through thousands of bottles and tens-of-thousands of tastings, it grew into something larger than I would have imagined.

During this growth, Pinot Noir became a huge fascination of mine - and I'll get into it a little more in future blogs. However, my fondness probably grew from the fact that it was never the same - even region to region, let alone, producer to producer. It became that little magic in a glass that would transport you to this place which was defined more Earth and Sun, than by the clumsy, jammy, alcohol bombs that seem to be everywhere in the market. It is there that find that harmony of taste - a perfect balance of fruit, acid, alcohol and tannin. And when you find a great one... you know it.

One thing I learned very early in this industry, is that there is always more you can learn. You'll never be the expert, no matter how specific you focus. Fortunately, most people in the industry share their experiences with you so you can pick up a great deal from others. If your reading this and want to get started, these books may be able to help you get an idea of what it may take:

• The Heartbreak Grape, A Journey in Search of the Perfect Pinot Noir - This is a great story of the trials and tribulations that one may face in making wine from Pinot Noir. Trained in France, Josh Jensen takes you on his journey of a passion which fueled his quest for Limestone soil in California.
  

• From Vines to Wines: The Complete Guide to Growing Grapes and Making Your Own Wine - Jeff Cox does a wonderful job taking you through the process of what it takes to get a great vineyard up and running and then follows through the process to teach you about making wine. I recommend this for even the most seasoned veteran in the business because every time I pick this

• The Grail: ... in Pursuit of the Best Pinot Noir Wine ... Yet another great book of the tests that one is put through when trying to make great Pinot Noir. If you thought that this lifestyle is glamorous, you need to read this one to put things in perspective.

I hope you enjoy these books and would love to hear what your thoughts are...

Until next time - Cheers!